For many people, decks can transform from an attractive extension of their home to an unsightly eye sore. Much rhetoric floats around the internet regarding techniques for cleaning and sealing. "What products should I use" and "What the best deck stain" are but two of the often asked questions. The answer is that really isn't a one size fits all solution. Much depends on your location. For PA deck cleaning and staining one has to be concious of our high humidity, searing summer temps and cold, snowy winters.

PressurePros, Inc, a company with 8 years experience in deck restoration stays to the old school (and still true) notion that oil based sealers are not only best for the wood, they are much more conducive to ongoing maintenance. Many of our customers do not want to worry about their decks but merely enjoy them. While the initial cost of proper prep and quality products like Armstrong Clark can be more expensive, the payoff is finish longevity and maintenance that is simple.

When choosing products or a contractor to clean your deck, listen carefully to what the company rep or owner is telling you. Using a pressure washer is not merely enough to be qualified as wood pro. Time in business, how much wood they do and what products they use as well as insurance certificates being current are what sets true professionals apart.

Welcome everyone!

Thanks, Mark.

Welcome guys!

Mark, has the board been kept vertical?

Rick Petry wrote:
Lyle,

Ok, I think I've got it. Definitely a heavy rotary machine, at a 175 RPM speed. I would guess that the low RPM's would both help in preventing "burninshing" the wood and make control a bit easier. And the 60/80 grit brush can be used for both defurring and a harder "sanding".

If the weight does not hurt redwood, it certainly should not be a problem with western red cedar or especially yellow pine.

If I recall correctly, Jim sometimes uses a "middle" pad, which gives the working brush some more flex when working on uneven deck floors.

Thanks.

You may have that middle padding method via my postings elsewhere. Can just use any old basic nylon floor pad as a backup when using screen when you want some give or to help prevent screen from ripping apart or if you have no sanding driver block. Have ran these rotary machines now for over 25 years and I've yet to have need for the actual sanding driver to run the paper or screen.

PressurePros wrote:
When we sand ipe with a square buff its with the roughest grit available, which I think is 16. Its like a bunch of rocks glued onto paper. Even then its a slow walk, double pass for every triple set of boards.

Wow Fenner..Sanding ipe sounds tuff! Is not something I've had to do yet since strip and defur has always been swell enough prep on all the ones I ran into so far. Have you not compared the low speed swing machine to square sanders? If not I recommend doing so regardless of working with ipe or not. Have sited the differences elsewhere on ocassion as being huge due to the big swathy rotary cut being far supperior and faster than them vibrataing orbital thingies. No matter if using paper, pads, screen, or brush the rotary swing machine is like at least twice as fast. On some surfaces like dimpled urethane they are actgualy about the only solution to use besides going with a full on drum sanding procedure. Seriously try a bulky 20" and you'll be in heaven.