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Maryland Deck Refinishing
carlton mitchell
Company Name
About me
I'm a certified appraiser, licensed home inspection and a contractor specializing in deck refinishing.

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608 Winona Ct Silver Spring, Md 20902
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Silver Spring
United States


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UniqueDeck and glbrown2 are now friends
626 days ago
marylanddeckcleaning replied to the topic Re: Dealing with Acrylic in the forums.
I find it easier to sell matching project.
977 days ago
marylanddeckcleaning thanks for the post Re: Dealing with Acrylic in the forums.
977 days ago
I push my customers to cleaning only. If they want to see the natural tone than I prepare them for at least annual treatment. Most have it stained once than forget about it until is very dirty.
**We do not use a pressure washer (power washer) in deck restoration. We exclusively use scrub brushing and deck cleaners to prepare the wood for a finish.
977 days ago
I up sale to screen replacement. Most go for it because the decks typically have not been maintained and the screen is worn anyway. If the deck has been maintain and the outside of the railing needs more oil than I use paper (rolls from HD) on the screen and rag the stain on.

Maryland Pressure Washing
977 days ago
marylanddeckcleaning added 8 new photos in 2012 pictures album
  • Mountain Cedar on New Deck
  • phone 018
  • phone 183
  • Cumaru Hardwood Potomac, Md Deck Refinishing
977 days ago
marylanddeckcleaning created a new topic Dealing with Acrylic in the forums.
I started last year with a new strategy for dealing with semi trans acrylics (common from HD & Lowes). Acrylic semi trans are easier to stip than solid acrylics with over all short dwell time necessary to break the finish (mix Sodium Hydroxide with Flood or Sherwin William stripper). Even though they are easier to strip compared to solid acrylics I've become tired of dealing with stripping railings and sanding fuzzies on the pickets. My new strategy is to use SW Deckscape acrylic on the railing color matched to AC on the deck floor and rail cap. Semi trans and semi solids are best in this process for color matching. I took a board with 2 coats of stain to SW to be scanned. The formulas stay in the paint store system and becomes a standard mix. Now I can show customers sample board with both AC and SW side by side to aid in the sales appt. I strip, sand the floor and rail cap and clean the railing followed by re-coat of acrylic. The results are fabulous with over all short project time, looks good, no fuzzies to deal with and good profit margin. The novice does not complete at this level. So, it's easy to be one of the few to offer this kind of service and switching to oil sales itself. Horizontal surfaces are easier to deal with in the future because they are protected by oil. Many consumers do not even notice the texture difference between the two product types but of course I explain it to them. Acrylic on railing hold up well also. Below is a cedar deck stained with AC Cedar Semi Trans and the railing painted with color matched Deckscape acrylic.

I do not strip solid acrylics anymore because getting the profit margin my company commands is tough and dealing with chems is not at the top of my list. Solid acrylics are scrub brushed cleaned, feather sanded and a coat of Sherwin Willams Deckscape applied.
977 days ago

Part 3—Sanding and Sealing

In Part 1 and Part 2 of this series, we described the equipment needed to clean your deck, and explained how to use it properly.  In this article, we will discuss the how to finish the job.  First, you must be sure that your deck has completely dried from the washing process.  This will take at least 24 hours. 

Next inspect the deck for raised fibers, and use sandpaper to smooth any out that you find.  Decks that are very old may require more extensive sanding.  If this is the case, you will want a power sander to do the job.  There is a variety of sanding equipments available.  For an amateur homeowner, palm and vibratory sanders may be the best choice because they pose the least risk for doing damage.  A disc or belt sander will cover more area quickly, but can damage the wood if not used carefully.

Before moving on to staining and sealing, you may want to take the additional step of using a brightener.  Though there is an extra cost, a brightener can restore the appearance of old, weathered wood.  If you choose to use a brightener, be sure to rinse thoroughly afterward, and again allow the deck to fully dry.

Once your deck is clean, dry and free of raised fibers, you are ready to stain.  Just as with deck cleansers, there are a myriad of deck staining products on the market to choose from.  There are three main categories of deck stain: Oil-based, water-based and acrylic-based.  Oil-based stains are the most popular among both homeowners and professionals, due to their ability to deeply penetrate the wood, which allows for better protection from moisture.  Water-based stains do not penetrate the wood deeply as oil-based stains do, but they do provide protection from the elements, and are very easy to apply and clean up.  Also, water-based stains don’t release volatile organic compounds (VOCs), and are therefore considered a safer product to use.  Acrylic-based stains are a newer product on the market.  They apply very quickly, and have a similar performance to water-based stains.

Once you’ve chosen a stain, thoroughly reading the instructions is essential.  A paint brush will provide the deepest penetration, but sprayers and rollers are becoming more popular since they take less time.  One of the keys to a good finish is to not over-apply the stain.  When too much stain is applied, a film can form that may peel or crack over time.  It is generally best to work from the top down, so all of the rails should be stained first.  Then the stain should be applied beginning at the area adjacent to the house.  Finally, be sure to allow at least 24 hours for the stain to dry before using the deck again.

Call Carlton for Potomac, MD deck cleaning services.

1377 days ago

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