Bleach is Bad for Wood

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Mildew Removal Bleach vs. Sodium Percarbonate

Monday, 01 February 2010 by thesealerstore

If you get a chance read this file attachment about Bleach or Sodium Percarbonate when removing mildew.

http://www.thewoodpros.com/images/fbfiles/files/If_mildew_is_already_present_on_a_substrate.doc

Post a response on this Forum Post:

http://www.thewoodpros.com/forum/4-contractor-inspiration-center/358-sodium-percarbonate-or-bleach

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Bleach is bad for the wood lignin

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I think the title is so misleading. How about " Sodium Hydroxide breaks down lignin faster than Bleach" ? Does Sodium Hydroxide Kill mildew ?What kills mildew better Pre Carbs or Bleach ? In the wrong hands any solution can result in a problem ! Bleach is a tool for and in the Business of Wood Restoration. I have found that the Wood Biz has many many people who give opinions on worse case scenario's or have no experience using Bleach effectively. All it takes is Instruction and practice

Last replied by Diamond jim on Wednesday, 24 February 2010

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Wall

acegot,

Here is my take on the Bleach topic. From what i've read over the years & some tests I did years ago when I was experimenting with chems is this. First of all, diluted bleach & surfactant used for maintanence cleaning is no problem, the bleach doesnt really penetrate enough into the would to be a problem. On bare wood I feel sod hydroxide breaks down the lignon just as much as bleach if not more, the issue is that bleach in a too concentrated level will attach itself to the lignon more & will leave more residue in the wood,(even when well rinsed) that sealers/stains do not penetrate & soak into the wood properly to have a finish that will last adequately. The bleach residue repels & inhibates the sealer from deep pentation. I did a test board years back where 1 area was cleaned with off the shelf name brand bleach cleaner per the directions on the bottle,power washed, neurtralized & after dry sealed with twp. The other are was with off the shelf sod. hydroxide stripper as per directions,power washed, neutralized & after dry sealed with twp. Stuck the board up on my storage shed for a year. After visual inspection the bleached section was very faded compared to the other. I then just took a deck brush with water & moderately scrubbed both areas & rinsed with garden hose, the bleached area basicly had no sealer left on it. That confirmed what I had read when I was first teaching myself wood restoration that bleach sold as a wood cleaner could affect sealer performance.

Sorry for the long post, but felt important to share. Lyle

a guest on Thursday, 28 January 2010 17:10 | Remove

I have used Bleach now for over 12 years and is my main Solution for wood in combination with a soap. I still do use Pre carbs and all other strippers when needed. I also use Bleach in combination with NOAH and Pre carbs in combination with NOAH. I have decks that are 12 years old now with yearly Maintenance that only Bleach has been used and are in better than new condition. The Cedar house done along with Rick's Ipe job entered in the Winter contest was all Bleach. It was a very difficult prep job and Bleach was the only choice for the job ! The Cedar Shake job featured in Cleaner Times a couple of years ago was a double dose of Bleach because the mildew was so bad !! I saved the Shakes because of Bleach. I am the original "Bleach Boy" and came up with the" BDA" Bleach Dwellers Association. Shane was the other Bleach Boy. Shane used to use Bleach to lighten up the wood after stripping for years before coming the the BB and some chats. LOL! All problems associated with Bleach are lack of knowledge and experience. It's that simple! "life is not a Bleach"

My experiences dealing with new wood( cedar biggest pain) and trying every combination of cleaner to see what works best led to the use of Bleach( I am referred by deck builders) .

Thursday, 21 January 2010 15:46

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